As we follow the river upstream, crossing suspension bridges festooned with fluttering prayer flags, we pass through the ornate gateway into the Sagamatha National Park. The steps down beside the rock face feel a little like a passage from Lord of the Rings. A lovely path alongside the river leads up the steep hill to Namche Bazaar - the Sherpa capital. This town, nestled in a natural bowl, has grown dramatically over the last 10 years, providing more shops and tea houses to cater for the increase in trekkers. We’ll be staying in tea houses here at 3340m for two nights, to let our bodies catch up with the extra altitude.