Walking up the valley to Gokyo is a delight. The valley becomes a little steeper and narrower and then opens out to the dry Ngozumpa glacier, (the largest in the Himalaya). The sparkling turquoise First and Second lakes are one of Nepal’s most memorable sights. This is a sacred area – the lakes nestled into the mountain side with maybe a pair of Brahminy Ducks and the ground dotted with stone cairns, each a monument to a loved one. The tea houses of Gokyo, 4790m have a view over the Third Lake and Gokyo Ri. There is an option to climb this ‘hill’ but at 5357m it feels more of a mountain. Once there, you experience spectacular views of Everest. This is the third and final night at Machermo.